A topic long ignored is my ongoing 3d printing, mainly around the filament printer. In my case, my current model is a Prusa i3MK3s, honestly a very solid work horse of a machine. It has been very reliable system, except for the occasional user errors with re-adjusting calibration and filament temperatures.
However, over time, the metal plates included with the machine have progressively lost their ability to adhere models. Originally, it was reliable – eventually I experienced warping and then eventually not much would stick. For troubleshooting, I tried the normal recommendations – wipe down with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA), and occasionally wash with soap and water – and always avoid touching the surface directly. For many months, this was plenty to keep the system reliable.
Over the last few attempts however, even these steps have not worked. I tried going back to prior plates, tried all the normal issues, and nothing would stick. So, I did a bit more research, and ended up with a revision to my basic troubleshooting methodology. As such, I present my current flow chart for progression fixes:
- Start by recalibrating the z-axis, make sure that the “squish” is accurate and correct. That can fix many trivial items
- If that is not helpful, the next step is to wipe the surface with Isopropyl Alcohol and a paper towel. Ideally this should be done on a cold plate (the fumes are flammable), and then fully dry before using again.
- The next stage is a soap bath. Specifically using un-scented dish soap and warm water, wash the plate, being careful to fully dry the surface and avoid touching the surface with your hands or fingers. That is a second level of fix, and according to Prusa, should be sufficient for almost all cases.
- However, I have found that isn’t always a cure-all, and in my case a 3rd stage was needed. After having thoroughly washing the surface, if the print is still not sticking, then it is time for the glue-stick. A basic PVA glue stick, nothing fancy, rubbed on the surface while room temperature. It doesn’t need to be a full coverage, just a few strokes across the surface. Then, re-apply the Isopropyl Alcohol wipe. The IPA in this case dissolved the glue, and the wiping distributes it evenly across the surface. Once dry, you have a very thin re-surfacing on the print bed, and hopefully strong adhesion.
- If that doesn’t work, I am functionally out of ideas, and it may be time to replace the print plate.
For my use, the glue-stick layer has worked admirably well. I am not sure how long the hold will last in terms of future prints, but for now, my large model is rock solid on the bed and my long print is progressing. I will update once I get some indication of how long it helps, or if future applications make a difference.
